Glenlivet
Glenlivet approaches the Spey via Strath Avon (pronounced 'Arn') at Ballindalloch Castle, 16th century seat of the Macpherson-Grants. To the west are the Cromdale Hills - upon which the remnants of Claverhouse's army made a last stand for King James VII and II and were routed by government troops in 1690 - and to the east Ben Rinnes, at 2759m, the highest hill hereabouts.

At the back of the Cromdale Hills is Balmenach Distillery, closed since 1993 - only temporarily, it is to be hoped, since it produces a big, fruity malt. Further down the road is Tormore, a model distillery which looks Edwardian but which was in fact built only in 1958, designed by Sir Albert Richardson, past President of the Royal Academy. Then comes Cragganmore, at Ballindalloch - one of United Distillers' 'Classic Malts' and a good example of the heavier style of Speyside.

Founding family
On the other side of Ben Rinnes is Glenfarclas Distillery - one of the few distilleries which are still in the ownership of its founding family - producing a fine traditional Speyside. Then Benrinnes (a rare malt, but a Top Dressing), Dailuaine, Glenallachie (built 1967) and Aberlour (a well made whisky, and the most popular malt in France. The distillery is owned by Pernod Ricard).

Lightbodied
Now we cross the Spey at Craigellachie, past Macallan and Imperial Distilleries, and reach Cardhu, Tamdhu and Knockando. All three produce lightbodied, soft and pale whiskies: Cardhu is wonderfully fragrant (Parma violets), and is the base or 'heart' malt in johnnie Walker brands; Tamdhu has a slightly biscuity aroma and a whiff of smoke in the finish (the distillery is one of the few to still have its own maltings); Knockando is complex and floral: it is owned by Justerini & Brooks and is the heart of the famous J&B Rare blend.